Size Matters

Sizes are a funny thing when it comes to clothing. This is especially true when dealing with second hand items which may have been produced at various points in time. True, fit is the most important element of a man's style, and as such one must know his sizes: chest, waist, neck and so forth. But often these numbers are best used only as a loose guide. It frequently happens that I find something that isn't really "my size" but fits anyway. When that happens, I go with fit and ignore the numbers. Because in actuality those numbers are often somewhat arbitrary. For example:
Today I was fortunate to come across this 3/2 un-darted jacket with patch and flap pockets.

Real camel hair, softest thing you ever saw,

Made by H.Freeman & Son. Quick research tells me that these guys are still in business and make some top notch stuff. Unfortunately, no word on "The English Shop" of Princeton. So what's the problem?

Most of my jackets are a size 40 or 42. I'm 5'10", and the rules would tell you that I wear a "regular"length...but I don't. I always opt for a size "short". Why? I can't really explain it, but short size jackets just suit me better. Regulars make my legs look stumpy. Only this jacket is marked size 44 regular. How can this be, when I still fit into my size 40 J.Press blazer? Sure, I could get all prideful and refuse to admit it, but then I'd only be missing out on this lovely jacket. The truth of the matter is the jacket looks good on me, and the number is pretty much meaningless.

Than there's this Tartan flannel vest:
A pretty snappy number, complete with braided leather buttons,

from some place called Doherty in Worcester. Those of you who are from these parts may find it incredible to imagine that there once was a time when men in Worcester might have donned this thing.

This one is size 42 long. As I said, I rarely where a size regular. I have never worn a size long. But this thing fits. Why? It's a funny thing with vests, especially old ones, that they are always cut very short, and unless I hike my pants up to my armpits, there's a gap between vest and pants, very unbecoming. That's why I nevr buy them. I even had to get rid of a few choice ones for that very reason. But the extra length on this one means it meets the top of my pants just so at the spot where I wear them comfortably. Who knew?

All this loose regard for size gets even murkier in the thrift shops. Many of these places are not so organized as to have the items sized. Even when they are, it mostly doesn't matter. I find suits separated by S M L designations, sometimes finding things that fit me in each category. Pants may be separated by waist size, but I currently own pants ranging in size from 33 to 36.My shirts are half size 15, the rest 15 1/2. The point is, to navigate these waters successfully, you've got to look through everything in the store, and more importantly learn to ignore the numbers, which mean nothing, and pay attention to the fit, which means everything.

Once you get the hang of this, you'll even be able to size things up "by eye" as it were. When all else fails, try something on and be honest about it's fit, then check the size later. Don't try to pretend you haven't gained ten pounds in the last few years, and don't forget that every guy, no matter what style he may choose to adopt, looks better in clothes that fit. Above all else, find a good tailor and stick with him like a brother.

Size does matter, numbers don't.